Welcome to all-grain brewing – the surest (and most fun) way to make great tasting beer. These trusty instructions will guide you through the time-honoured steps of traditional beer making:
… and after that, we leave it up to you.
Your Molotov Kit includes a 5 ml bottle of iodophor norinse sanitizer. Dilute this in about 7 litres of water to make a sanitizing solution.
Before you start brewing, pour some of this sanitizing solution into your glass carboy, give it a swirl and then let it drain dry. You do not need to rinse iodophor off after contact. Keep the rest for sanitization after you’re done with the boil.
Warm 4 litres of water in your 10-litre pot to 75°C. This is your mash pot. In a second pot (or kettle), bring another 4.5 litres up to around boiling (but don’t boil). This is your reserve, or sparge water. Line your mash pot with the brew bag, drawing the edges tight around the outside of the mash pot with the drawstring to make sure nothing touches the hot stove top. Now add your milled malt to the water, stirring slowly. The temperature should settle to around 67°C. Keep the temperature of your mash pot between 63 and 69°C for about an hour – stirring gently occasionally. You can either use the stove heat to keep this constant, or gradually add some of your sparge water to the mash to keep the temperature up. After an hour, lift out the brew bag and pour the remaining sparge water (at about 77°C) through the bag into the pot to rinse all the sugars out of the grains into your mash pot. After your mash, you should be left with around 8 litres of wort (pronounced “wert”) in your pot – this will become your beer.
Turn up the heat and bring your wort to the boil. Watch is doesn’t boil over as it hits the “hot break” (initial boil). Boil for an hour, stirring occasionally and add hops:
• At the beginning of the boil, add 4g of SAB T90 Blend.
• With 10 minutes to go, add 3g of SAB T90 Blend.
After you’ve boiled the wort for an hour, remove from the stove and cool as quickly as possible to around 22°C – preferably using an ice-bath. From now on, remember to sanitize everything that touches your wort. (Remember the iodophor solution? Just dip everything in it for 2 minutes before using.)
Once your wort is cooled to around 22°C, use the siphon tube to transfer it to your carboy fermentor. Try not to suck up too much of the trub (coagulated proteins and hop leaves) from the bottom of the pot. Do not fill your fermentor to the brim – you’ll need some space once fermentation gets going. Sprinkle in the sachet of yeast, and give your carboy a little shake / swirl to oxygenate it. Close the carboy with the rubber bung, and insert the airlock into the bung. Add a little water (or better still, vodka) to the airlock and place the carboy in a cool, dark place. You should notice bubbling though the airlock as fermentation gets going within about 24 hours. Try to keep your fermentor at a constant temperature between 9 – 20°C, but ideally 12 – 15°C.
After about a week fermentation should be tapering off, but it’s usually best to wait another week before bottling just to be sure.
Once fermentation is done, use your siphon tube to transfer your beer into (very clean and sterilized) bottles.
Add a little bottling sugar to each bottle (work on about 6 grams of sugar per litre of beer).
Cap / seal the bottles and leave them to condition (carbonate and mature) for a further 1 – 3 weeks.
Then crack ’em open and enjoy. Viva la revolution!